Nestled in the scenic Pecos River Valley, just a short drive southeast of Santa Fe, lies Lightning Ranch (historically known as the Forked Lightning Ranch), a property steeped in the colorful history of the American West and New Mexico. Its story begins not with ancient ruins, but with the dynamic era of the Santa Fe Trail and the larger-than-life personalities who sought to capture the spirit and opportunity of the region.
The land itself sits near the remnants of Kozlowski's Stage Stop and Tavern, a vital stop on the Santa Fe Trail established in 1858 by Polish immigrant Martin Kozlowski. This historic waystation served travelers making the arduous journey west and even functioned as a Union hospital during the Civil War's Battle of Glorieta Pass in 1862. This strategic location set the stage for the property's later incarnations.
In 1925, the modern story of the ranch began when the flamboyant rodeo promoter John Van "Tex" Austin acquired 5,500 acres of the old Pecos Pueblo Grant, incorporating the Kozlowski site. Austin, a master showman known for producing the first rodeos in Madison Square Garden and London's Wembley Stadium, envisioned a quintessential Western dude ranch to attract affluent Eastern tourists. He dubbed it the Forked Lightning Ranch and commissioned John Gaw Meem, who would become one of New Mexico's most celebrated architects, to design the main ranch house. This project was one of Meem's earliest, showcasing the Pueblo Revival style for which he became famous. Built on a bluff overlooking the Pecos River, the house featured rooms facing an inner patio and a distinctive, specially sculpted steer head mounted on the chimney.
Tex Austin marketed Forked Lightning as "the most complete, modern and comfortable ranch house in the West," offering guests an immersive experience with horseback riding, pack trips into the nearby mountains, chuckwagon dinners, and even the chance to participate in cattle drives. While operating as a guest ranch, it also functioned as a working cattle operation. However, Austin's venture was relatively short-lived. Hit hard by the Great Depression and heavily mortgaged, the dude ranch closed in 1933, and Austin eventually lost the property.
The ranch entered its next significant chapter in 1941 when it was purchased by Colonel Elijah Edwin "Buddy" Fogelson, a Texas oilman and rancher. Fogelson expanded the property significantly over the years, eventually reaching about 13,000 acres. He used Tex Austin's main house as his residence and the old Kozlowski Trading Post as quarters for his ranch foreman. Fogelson focused on cattle ranching, initially raising Herefords.
In 1949, Fogelson married the celebrated Hollywood actress Greer Garson, winner of the Academy Award for Best Actress for Mrs. Miniver. The Forked Lightning Ranch became their cherished part-time home and a center for gracious entertaining. They hosted lavish parties, welcoming a glittering array of guests from Hollywood, politics, and the arts, including figures like Merle Oberon, Vincente Minnelli, David O. Selznick, Winthrop Rockefeller, Georgia O'Keeffe, and Art Linkletter. The ranch was known for its blend of working cattle operation and sophisticated hospitality, complete with chuckwagon picnics, patio fiestas, hunt breakfasts, and even a skeet shooting range.
Greer Garson became actively involved in ranch life, even attempting (unsuccessfully) to raise white Shorthorn cattle imported from her native Scotland. Buddy Fogelson later successfully introduced Santa Gertrudis cattle to the ranch, a breed known for its hardiness, and actively promoted them, winning prizes at the New Mexico State Fair.
Following Buddy Fogelson's death in 1987, the ranch was divided. In 1991, Greer Garson Fogelson, in declining health, sold her portion (containing the historic core, including Tex Austin's main house and the Kozlowski site) to The Conservation Fund. This group subsequently donated the property to the National Park Service, making it a key part of the Pecos National Historical Park. Today, the spirit of the ranch continues, though under different ownership configurations in the area, often operating as Lightning Ranch, offering lodging, events, and activities that echo its historic hospitality.
Why It's a Must-See/Do
Lightning Ranch, and its historical heart within Pecos National Historical Park, offers visitors a compelling blend of rich history, stunning natural beauty, and authentic New Mexico charm, making it a worthwhile destination for those exploring the Santa Fe region. Its significance stems from its connections to key figures and eras in Southwestern history, combined with its beautiful setting and modern offerings.
The historical resonance is a major draw. Walking the grounds evokes the eras of the Santa Fe Trail, the early days of dude ranching pioneered by the colorful Tex Austin, and the glamorous mid-century period when Hollywood royalty (Greer Garson) blended ranch life with sophisticated entertaining. Visiting the historic ranch house designed by John Gaw Meem within the park offers a tangible link to this layered past (Note: Access often requires guided tours with reservations through the National Park Service).
The location itself is spectacular. Situated along the Pecos River in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the ranch provides a serene escape into nature. The river offers opportunities for fishing (check regulations), and the surrounding landscape, part of or adjacent to the Santa Fe National Forest, is ideal for hiking, horseback riding, bird watching, and simply soaking in the tranquility of the Pecos Valley. The clear air and expansive views offer a refreshing counterpoint to city life.
For those seeking lodging or event venues near Santa Fe, Lightning Ranch provides unique options. Often operating with guest cabins or casitas, it offers accommodations that blend rustic charm with modern comforts. As an event venue, it provides a picturesque and historic backdrop for weddings, corporate retreats, family reunions, or other gatherings seeking a distinct Southwestern atmosphere away from the immediate bustle of Santa Fe.
Experiencing activities often associated with the ranch, like horseback riding through the scenic terrain or enjoying outdoor meals, connects visitors directly to the property's heritage as both a working ranch and a guest ranch. It offers a taste of the traditional New Mexico ranch lifestyle combined with hospitality services. It serves as an excellent base for exploring the wider attractions of the Pecos area, including the Pecos Wilderness, Monastery Lake, and the rich archaeological sites within Pecos National Historical Park.
5 Things Most People Don't Know
- Tex Austin's "Volunteer" Cattle Drives: To move his cattle between the ranch and Las Vegas, NM, Tex Austin cleverly recruited paying "dudes" from the East Coast who volunteered for the adventure of a real cattle drive, effectively getting his ranch work done while providing a unique (and profitable) guest experience.
- Greer Garson's Scottish Cattle Failure: While known for her elegance, Oscar-winning actress Greer Garson was involved in ranch operations. In 1950, she imported a herd of white Shorthorn cattle from her native Scotland, hoping they would thrive. However, the breed proved unable to withstand the harsh New Mexico climate, unlike the later successful Santa Gertrudis breed introduced by her husband.
- John Gaw Meem's Early Commission: The iconic Pueblo Revival ranch house at the core of the property was one of the very first major commissions for John Gaw Meem, who would go on to become New Mexico's most influential architect, defining the "Santa Fe Style" for decades. Designing Forked Lightning Ranch launched his renowned career.
- Site of Kozlowski's Trading Post: The land incorporated into the original Forked Lightning Ranch included the site of Martin Kozlowski's 1858 Trading Post, a significant stop on the Santa Fe Trail and later a Union Army hospital during the Battle of Glorieta Pass. Tex Austin used the historic building as his initial ranch headquarters. (This building is sometimes open for tours via the National Park Service).
- Val Kilmer Owned Part of the Ranch: After Buddy Fogelson's death in 1987, the expanded ranch was divided. While Greer Garson retained the historic core (which later went to the NPS), Fogelson's son inherited the southern portion. Actor Val Kilmer later purchased a large section (around 5,500 acres) of this southern part of the original, expanded Forked Lightning Ranch lands.
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